How to Plant, Grow, and Care for ‘Fuji’ Apple Trees

‘Fuji’ apples aren’t only delicious, but their trees are stunning ornamentals with beautiful flowers and remarkable fall color. They add to the local environment with flower nectar, abundant fruit, and luscious leaves. Pollinators and birds delight at the sight of an apple tree.

You can grow a ‘Fuji’ in your backyard for a lifetime’s supply of sweet apples. Its apples store exceptionally well compared to others, lasting four to six months when kept in the refrigerator. This means you’ll enjoy crisp apples throughout the winter and early spring!

An all-around favorite, ‘Fuji’ is the variety to grow for gardeners in USDA zones 6 through 9. It has a long growing season and a low chill requirement, making it a perfect specimen for Southern California gardeners who struggle to grow other apple varieties. Here is everything you need to know about this classic fruit tree.

What is a ‘Fuji’ Apple?

The ‘Fuji’ apple variety is a hybrid from Japan. Its parents are ‘Red Delicious’ and ‘Virginia Ralls Genet,’ and it combines the best of both varieties into one. The full size of this tree, as in all apple trees, depends on its rootstock. Dwarf rootstock trees mature to ten feet and semi-dwarf to fifteen feet.

Apples are an iconic fruit eaten and recognized worldwide. The internet is full of recipes for apples, and home cooks make apples into juices, ciders, sauces, desserts, and more. ‘Fuji’ apples are a great option for home chefs as they last long and easily cook down to a decadent sauce. 

Native Area

The ‘Fuji’ variety’s parent trees grow in Japan, but the original parent is Malus domestica. This wild apple species is native to Central Asia and Afghanistan. Breeders combine this apple’s DNA with other wild species and they produce the thousands of cultivars we grow and love today. 

Characteristics

‘Fuji’ apple trees are dwarf or semi-dwarf, growing ten to fifteen feet tall. They bloom dainty pink-white flowers in early spring after the cherry and plum trees. Apple leaves are glossy green with slight serrations on their margins. 

‘Fuji’ fruit is firm, sweet, and crisp. The skin starts yellowish-green and slowly matures to have red lines and splotching. After testing the flavors of most apple varieties at grocery stores, I’ve found ‘Fuji’ to be my reliable favorite. 

These trees are not fully self-pollinating and require another variety planted close by that blooms at the same time. ‘Gala’ and ‘Granny Smith’ are two potential options for optimal pollination and fruit formation on both trees. 

Propagation

What’s better than one apple tree? Two! If you can’t get enough of your ‘Fuji’ and want more, try propagating it. Although you can grow apples from seed, apple trees grown from ‘Fuji’ seed will differ from their parent. 

Apples use pollen from other apple trees to pollinate themselves and grow fruit, so your seed tree could grow completely different apples than a ‘Fuji.’ Do not let this discourage you from growing apple trees from seed. It’s still a fun experiment, and you may have a delicious new apple variety! 

Cuttings

Reliably propagate another ‘Fuji’ tree by taking cuttings. In late winter cut six-inch softwood branches off of an existing ‘Fuji’ tree. Wrap them in a bundle and put them in a bag in the fridge for the winter. 

In early spring, plant your cuttings in small pots with good drainage. Cover them with a humidity dome or transparent plastic bag, and place them in an area with dappled shade while they root. Water the soil well and water again whenever it dries out. Pick off any blossoms that develop so your cuttings focus all their efforts on rooting.

After a few weeks or up to six months later, your cuttings should have roots at their bottoms and leaves growing at their tops. Transplant them wherever you desire in a spot that receives full sun and water well.

Planting

Plant deciduous ‘Fuji’ trees after they’ve lost their leaves in the fall. Situate your tree in a spot with full sun and good drainage. Throughout the winter, it will acclimate to its surroundings and prepare for the growing season. 

‘Fuji’ thrive in USDA garden zones 6 through 9. In warmer climates with hot and dry summers, plant your tree in a spot with some afternoon shade to protect it during the hottest hours of the day. 

Transplanting

Apple trees in nurseries grow in two common forms: container and bare-root. Follow these simple guidelines for your type and set your tree up for a lifetime of success. 

Bare-Root

Bare-root ‘Fuji’ trees are dug up in the fall for transport and resell. Growers remove the soil around the trees’ roots and place them in sawdust for the winter. Because apple trees are deciduous, they receive no harm from this process and are in dormancy while it happens.

Bare-root trees are cheaper and, when planted at the right time, give your tree a bigger head start compared to container-grown material. Prepare your tree by pruning off any dead or damaged wood and roots, and then soak the tree in water for a few hours.

While the tree is soaking, prepare your hole for planting. Dig a hole deeper at the edges than in the center, giving the appearance of a moat around the edges. Then, place your bare-root tree on the raised center of the hole so that the base of the trunk is at ground level. Spread out the roots into the moat and partially fill the hole with soil.

Water the hole and let the soil settle a bit around the tree roots. This helps the tree latch onto the soil and stabilize itself. Let the water drain, then add soil up to ground level and water again. Be sure not to bury your tree’s trunk, as this leads to rot over time. 

Container Grown

Why plant a container-grown tree? Nurseries sell them year-round, unlike bare-root trees which they only sell during winter dormancy. Using pots keeps the tree’s root zone safe and secluded. 

Although container-grown ‘Fuji’ trees are sold in the summertime, it is never best to plant apple trees when they have their leaves and fruit in the summer. Aim to plant your container ‘Fuji’ from fall to early spring before the buds open. 

Prepare the site by digging a hole as deep and three times as wide as your apple tree’s root ball. This will loosen the surrounding dirt and make it easier for your tree to grow roots in the native soil. 

Place your tree in the center of the hole. If staking your sapling, place stakes into the ground at this stage. Then, pile up the dirt you dug out back into the hole around the rootball. Water well, let the soil settle, and fill the hole again until it reaches your tree’s base. 

Water again and mulch well. Take care not to pile up mulch around the tree’s trunk, as these “mulch volcanoes” are not good for trees.

How to Grow

‘Fuji’ is one of the easier apple varieties to grow. Use these simple care practices to ensure your tree has all that it needs to produce delicious apples each summer.

Light

‘Fuji’ apple trees appreciate full sun and require six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day. In certain gardens throughout zone 9, ‘Fuji’ benefits from afternoon shade during the summer season. Apples can get sunburnt in areas like Southern California when they receive too much direct sunlight. 

Water

Apples love water! They suck up a lot of water and put it into their apples. That is why apples are so sweet and juicy!

This also means that your apple tree will need regular water during the spring and summer. Where I live in the Willamette Valley of Oregon, we have dry summers, and I have to water my apple trees every two to three weeks during these seasons. You’ll notice your apple needs water when the ground is dry around it. Water deeply and periodically; one method is to let the hose trickle by your tree for thirty minutes to an hour. 

In the fall and winter, your ‘Fuji’ enters dormancy and won’t require as much water as during the growing season. Gardeners in areas with fall and winter rainfall may not have to water at all. 

Soil

Although ‘Fuji’ apples appreciate slightly acidic and fertile soil with good drainage, they tolerate a wide variety of soil conditions. From humus-rich dirt to hard clay, they adapt to the soil type over time. 

Trees planted in clay or sandy soils may need extra care during their lifetime. Clay soil stays wet and soggy with rain and hard and dry without it. Sandy soil loses moisture quickly and presents issues for ‘Fuji’ apples in the heat of summer. 

To avoid losing too much water from the soil, place mulch around the tree. Leave a space around the trunk’s base, but feel free to pile the mulch up to three inches tall in areas away from the base. Mulch helps your tree retain water and protects it from extreme freezes. Over time, the mulch decomposes and amends the soil to be porous and nutritious. 

Temperature and Humidity

‘Fuji’ appreciates a long growing season and a short chill requirement to make bountiful crops of apples. It grows its best with mild winters and long growing seasons of at least 160 days. This is the perfect candidate to grow in areas that receive 100 to 400 hours of temperatures below 45°F (7°C) in the fall and winter.

Ensuring your tree’s soil is moist during the growing season will help it maintain its optimal humidity. Apples like moderate to high humidity, anywhere from 40% to 60%. In the winter, trees need good airflow and in the summer they require deep soakings whenever there is a lack of rainfall.

Fertilizing

‘Fuji’ apple trees need nutrients to grow tasty apples. Use a general fertilizer with equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A good ratio is a 10-10-10 fertilizer. Apply ¼ pound at planting. 

Every following year at the start of spring, apply ¼ pound of the same fertilizer. Once your tree is producing a standard crop each year it will not require additional fertilizer. 

Adding mulch and compost to the soil over time ensures a steady supply of nutrients from microbes and fungi. Those critters colonize the soil and create partnerships with plants, exchanging nutrients for sugar. If you add compost as a mulch, cut the amount of organic fertilizer you use to ⅛ pound each spring. 

Maintenance

With a little care up front, apples are low-maintenance when mature. Proper pruning, planting, and seasonal care will keep your tree in tip-top shape. 

Add mulch or compost around the tree each spring, keeping the material at least four inches away from the trunk. When you feed the soil, the soil feeds your tree! During late summer and fall, clean up any fallen and rotting fruit. This minimizes pest populations and helps your tree stay healthy in the long run.  

The most common question I get with fruit trees is “how do you prune them?” There are a few options, although one reigns supreme as the best pruning style. Read on to learn which one.

Pruning

Dwarf ‘Fuji’ trees may not need pruning at all, except for removing dead and diseased wood in late winter. Semi-dwarf specimens can reach fifteen feet and may need shaping as they grow. The three most common shapes are: central leader, modified central leader, and espalier.

Want that typical tree look with one trunk and multiple scaffolded branches? That is the central leader shape. Although quite pretty, this shape eventually leads to weak branching at the peak of the tree. When fruit forms on these weak branches, they break and ruin the tree’s structure.

Opt for a modified central leader shape instead. It looks similar to the central leader and is more sustainable for an adult ‘Fuji’ tree. Create this form by selecting a central leader on the tree, a branch that grows up from the trunk. As your tree reaches adult size, let this central leader branch out and form multiple leaders. On mature trees, periodically prune the leaders back every few years to let light into the tree and avoid crowded branches.

The best time to prune is in late winter and early spring before the buds leaf out. Most diseases and pests are quiet in these two seasons. It is also easier to see the tree’s structure and make informed pruning decisions when it doesn’t have leaves. 

Harvesting

The best part of ‘Fuji’ apples is that they can last throughout the winter in the fridge! They are late-ripening apples, which means they are ready to harvest from late summer to fall. 

‘Fuji’ trees grow larger than normal crops every other year. This is called biennial bearing, and it can be frustrating for the home gardener. If your tree produced little fruit this year but had an abundant crop the year before, it is probably a low-yield year for the tree and nothing to be alarmed about. Know that next year, your tree will make up for this year’s lack of apples with a large yield.

Other varieties like ‘Gala’ are annual bearers and do not experience such wide biennial yield variations. Plant a ‘Gala’ or ‘Granny Smith’ tree next to your ‘Fuji’, and each year you’ll have a big crop. Having two simultaneously flowering varieties next to each other also promotes cross-pollination and fruit formation on both trees. 

Uses

How do you use an apple? There is no wrong answer! ‘Fuji’ apples are delicious fresh, in apple jam, and in desserts. This variety’s “storage apples” last for months in the refrigerator. Dry apples, make them into a sauce, or slice them with other fruit in a bowl as a fruit salad. 

Common Problems

Apples, like most fruit trees, have a myriad of pests and diseases that prey on them. Let’s figure out what’s going on with your ‘Fuji’ tree.

Lack of Fruit

This fruit tree is a biennial bearer and grows large crops of apples every other year. If it only grew a few apples this year your tree may be experiencing its off year. To avoid low apple yields, try planting a variety like ‘Gala’ near it that fruits annually. 

Small Fruit

‘Fuji’ trees need a long growing season to properly ripen their apples. If your fruit is small and green, your growing season may not be long enough for this variety. Plant it in a sunny spot to ensure your tree gets as much sunlight and warmth as it can, especially in areas with short summers. 

Pests and Diseases

Apples fall prey to fireblight, codling moths, apple maggots, and aphids. Fireblight is easily recognizable when entire branches suddenly die when flowering and fruiting. Cut infected branches off so you remove all the infected tissue. Clean rotten fruit and diseased branches that fall to the ground. 

Pests are a little trickier on apple trees. Pheromone traps and trichogramma wasps are two biological controls that help reduce pest populations while also having a minimal impact on surrounding wildlife. In extreme infestations, use horticultural oils like neem oil to reduce the population size.

One labor-intensive but awesome low-impact pest repeller is apple nets. After fruits start forming on apple flowers, bag them up with a fine mesh netting. Moths and maggots can’t get through this barrier, and your apples form without issues inside the mesh. 

Cedar-apple rust, powdery mildew, black rot, and flyspeck (a.k.a., sooty blotch) are other diseases to look out for when you grow apple trees. Cedar-apple rust appears on leaf undersides, which display raised yellow splotches.

The disease is often spread by juniper trees that carry the Gymnosporangium pathogen. The disease can spread to fruit and branches as well. The only treatment for this ailment is pruning away diseased tree parts, and spraying systemic fungicides.

Pruning also treats powdery mildew, which covers the surfaces of leaves and sometimes spreads in a white powdery substance onto branches and fruit. Maintaining good air circulation in the tree’s structure will keep black rot off of fruit, and flyspeck away as well.

Caused by the fungus Venturia inaequalis, apple scab is a common disease that displays itself as olive colored spots on leaves and fruit. This can be prevented by removing dead leaves from the base of the tree where the pathogen overwinters.

Frequently Asked Questions